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Do’s
Do buy from a dedicated platform
There are an awful lot of scams out there so the first place to start is with a dedicated sale platform, the obvious one’s being eBay, Gumtree and Facebook Marketplace. Whilst these sites rarely require proof of purchase, they do allow you to see a lot of information about the product and the peer-review systems mean you can quickly get an idea of how trustworthy the seller is. It’s also worth visiting sites such as Singletrack, Road.cc, Pinkbike and BikeRadar. These all have forums full of passionate cyclists looking to offload old bikes. Buying from sites such as this are going to save you a load of hassle when buying the bike in the first place, and even more should a dispute arise. But remember, just because the bike is on a respectable forum, doesn’t mean it’s not dodgy. So read on for more helpful tips.
Do ask for more details
Most bike listings will include a decent amount of information about the bike. For example, this might include the bikes component specification, the frame size, the last time it was serviced, how frequently it was used and what it was used for, as well its age. But if you’re not happy with the level of info provided, don’t be afraid to ask for more. You’re entitled to know more about something you might be spending a couple of hundred pounds on. Plus if the seller doesn’t know or seems reluctant to answer your questions, it could mean the bike is stolen.
Do make sure it’s the right size
It sounds obvious but make sure you check your buying the right size bike for you. It’s normallythe frame size you’re interested in and you’ll notice that most bike lists include reference to either ‘Large’ (L), ‘Medium’ (M), or ‘Small’ (S). Some will also include the frame measurements in centimetres or inches. Here’s a helpful size guide to determine what size you need for your height.
Do your research
The first thing to figure out is whether or not the bike is stolen - it’s a sad fact that the number of bike thefts are sky-high so logically thieves need a place to sell their ill-gotten goods. As a first step, ask the seller to provide proof-of-purchase (e.g. a photo of the receipt); this will include reference to the bike's unique frame number. If they match up, you’re almost certainly good to go (although there’s always the chance a thief stole the bike and the receipt). If you’re still unsure, it’s a good idea to check the police-approved Bike Register, which is an easy way to check if a bike has been listed as stolen. Once you’re confident the bike is legit, it’s a good idea to research the original cost of the bike to make sure you're getting a good deal. If that’s hard to find, then try and find similar models on other sites so you can compare.
Do meet the seller face-to-face
Pictures can paint a thousand words but there’s no substitute for seeing the bike in the flesh (so to speak). However, there are a few golden rules to remember when meeting a seller in person: firstly, meet in a public place, preferably in the day time. Try to avoid going to their home address. Secondly, take a friend along. A second opinion is always good, plus it’s useful to have someone else there to be on the safe side. Thirdly, don’t take cash. Nowadays online bank transfers can be done in seconds so once you’ve seen the goods and you’re happy you can make the payment. And finally, beware of the seller who’s reluctant to let you see the bike before you’ve transferred the money - they’ve probably got something to hide.
Do check for wear and tear
More often than not when buying second hand, the bike isn’t going to be in mint condition. There is going to be some dinks and dents. That being said, it’s still a good idea to check the bike for wear and tear and you don’t have to be an nearby expert bike mechanic to spot the most important issues. These include severely rusted parts (particularly the chain), seized parts (including brakes and gears) and perhaps most importantly, cracks to the frame. If the worst comes to the worst, components can be replaced, but a cracked or seriously dented frame is a definite no-no. If you have the time and inclination, you can quite easily calculate the cost of replacing any obviously damaged parts. Having this to hand could be used as leverage in any negotiations.
